![]() In order for this to work, you need to take three measurements - the volume of wort in your kettle, the volume of dead space in your system and the amount of free liquid in your grain bed. The basic idea is that when your pre-boil volume minus the volume of wort in your kettle equals the volume of dead space in your system plus the amount of liquid in your grain bed, it’s time to stop adding sparge water. Put more simply, when the wort you need (to fill your kettle) equals the wort you have (in your lauter tun), stop adding sparge water. ![]() ![]() With a couple quick brewday measurements and calculations, you can know precisely when to quit sparging, yielding a full kettle and an empty lauter tun. (Or, add some extra sparge water if you came up short.) After doing this a couple times, you should be able to eyeball it fairly well.īut let’s say you want to take a less haphazard approach. Shut off the flow of wort when you reach your pre-boil volume and see how much liquid was left in your system. ![]() Once you get close to the right amount of wort in your kettle, quit adding sparge water and keep draining the lauter tun. Later I figured out, with a little planning, I could stop sparging at the right point, let the grain bed run dry and hit my target pre-boil volume. Not only was this water wasted, but I’d used some propane to heat it and I still needed to drain it before I cleaned out my lauter tun. I kept adding sparge water right up to the point that I quit collecting wort, leaving weak wort under my false bottom, in my grain bed and water standing on top of the grain bed. If you’re a homebrewer, like me, who uses continuous sparging (also called “fly sparging”), you might end your wort collection with a lauter tun full of liquid. If you do it right, you can finish wort collection with an empty lauter tun and your full pre-boil wort volume. ![]()
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